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AgroLawns most frequently asked questionsThis page has been set up to answer some of the most common questions we have come across in the Lawn care, Tree and shrub care and Landscape industries. Some questions may involve an "on-site inspection " and cannot be answered here on this page. Agro-lawn offers "on-site" help for our current customers (Northern Virginia area only) through our customer service department. Customer Service can be reached mon - fri between 8:30 - 1:00 (est.) at 703-938-8844 ext. 216 or by e-mail. We will usually respond to your questions within the next 1-2 business days. If you are not a current customer but have a specific question regarding lawn or tree care we will do all we can to assist you in getting the right answers. Please send questions via e-mail so we can keep the phones open for our current customers.
1.Q: Agrolawn serviced my lawn today and it rained shortly after the application, What can I expect? A: Agrolawn applies both granular and liquid materials during an application. The granular part can only benefit from the rain because it is getting watered in. The liquid part is usually weed controls or fungicides and they need time to dry before watering. Sometimes they dry quickly and sometimes they take awhile. We asked that the customer give it a chance to see if it has worked. The customer can tell within 4-7 days if it is working because the weeds will begin a wilting process. If this process has not happened, Agrolawn will reapply the application at no additional charge once a 2 week barrier has been established. Re-applications can be set up by calling Customer Service at 703-938-8846. If we are not there, A message can be left on our machine and we will return the call the next business day. 2.Q: How soon can I mow after an application? A: Mowing can cause a problem with some aspects of the application. The granular fertilizer is not a problem because it can not be mowed up but there can be a problem with the liquid applications. As stated before they need adequate time to dry and soak into the plant. We recommend waiting until the next day after the application has been watered in. We have a page devoted to mowing at this link for more info. 3.Q: When can I water after an application has been made? A: Watering instructions are very similar to the Mowing instructions. We recommend watering all applications in the morning following the application. More information on watering can be found at this link. 4.Q: When can I let my pets out after an application? A: There should always be a certain amount of caution used after any application has been made. Agrolawn makes every attempt to be as neat and safe as we can be with each application. We walk the lawn to remove toys, turn over dog dishes and things like that. The day of the application pets should be kept off lawn if possible until the liquid application has dried. Once dry pets can be let out to do there business but should not be left out for long periods of time. Once the lawn has been watered and is dry the pets can be left out again without any problems. 5.Q: Why does it seem like we pay in advance for services? A: This is probably our most frequently asked question. Agrolawn offers year long programs. Most programs are for 5 visits a year ( 4 for Zoysia ). Each visit is different and we do different things for each visit depending on the time of year. Some services are more involved than others and therefore have different values associated with them. Instead of billing a different amount for each service rendered we have divided the yearly cost of the program by the amount of visits in that program so that all billings will remain the same. We ask for the first payment as a down payment to get everything started. The remaining 4 billings are left on the door after each service. After the last service is complete a bill will be left for a renewal down payment. Sending in renewal payments will renew the account for another year. Another way of looking at this would be an installment plan for a yearly program. 6.Q: How often should I water? A: Lawns require different amounts of water during different times of the year. We have a page set up at this link to break down the watering requirements per season. A: Mowing heights vary depending on the dominant grasses in each lawn. As a rule of thumb Tall Fescues should be kept between 3-3 1/2", Bluegrasses should be kept at 2 1/2" and Zoysia should be kept at 1 1/2". These heights should be maintained throughout the growing season. Be careful not to let the lawn get so high that you cut off more than 1/3 of the plant when you mow. This can damage the plant and open it up for disease. 8.Q: Should I bag my clippings? A: Many studies have been done on this subject. It is by far better to leave the clippings on the lawn rather then bag them. This process has been called grass cycling and you can find more info at this link. The most important thing to remember is to not leave clumps of clippings on the lawn and to not take off more than 1/3 of the plant when mowing. If you find that there are clumps of clippings being left on the lawn, It would be a good idea to disperse the clippings with a rake or to mow again to chop clippings into smaller pieces. Grass clumps left on the lawn can damage the grass beneath them. 9.Q: How long should I wait to see results from seeding? A: Seed germination varies according to many different factors including temperatures, moisture and type of seed used. If soil temperatures are above 55 degrees and there is adequate soil moisture, Most seed will begin to germinate within 10-14 days. Then it will take 4-6 weeks to tell how well it will fill in. Bluegrass takes 14-21 days to germinate but 9 months to mature. If bluegrass is your choice, Fall would be the time of year to seed. 10.Q: Why won't grass stay in shady areas of my lawn, even though I use shady grasses? A: Grasses are plants that require a certain amount of light to survive. Plants use light to process and create food. Some grasses do better than others in shady areas because of the way they grow. Deep shade grasses grow flatter and can take in more light than a plant that grows straight up and down. Even shady grasses require sunlight for at least 1/3 of the day. If this requirement is not met the plant will begin to suffer and die back. The only way of saving this grass is to get more light into the area. If that is not an option, We would advise landscaping the area and taking the bad areas out. 11.Q: Why do I still get crabgrass in my lawn after applying a preemergent in the Spring? A: Like any application made to the lawn, It is subject to weather conditions such as rain. Moisture can effect how long the preemergent is effective. If you apply a preemergent in early Spring and still have a problem in the Summer with crabgrass, it would be a good idea to make a second application about a month after the first to help control it. Even under the best circumstances, a preemergent is about 85% effective. There are several things that can be done to help keep crabgrass out of your lawn. Please follow this link for more info. 12.Q: What can be used to get rid of crabgrass after it comes up? A: Control for crabgrass after it emerges will depend on the amount that is present. If it a small amount it is important to realize that this grass is an annual and will die all by itself with the first or second frost. Although it can be difficult, Crabgrass can be pulled up as well. Sometimes crabgrass can overtake a lawn and in this situation it might be necessary to make a chemical application. Postemergents can be found at most hardware stores or nurseries. It is very important to follow the label on these products because these products can damage the lawn if used incorrectly. After a couple weeks have passed it would be a good idea to seed the lawn. Seeding will thicken the lawn and that competition will help to keep crabgrass out the following year. 13.Q: What can be done to control thatch? A: Thatch is the layer of dead roots and stems that sits between the crown of the plant and the soil. This layer will continue to accumulate as the years go by. In some cases it may be necessary to remove this layer. This can only be done through a process of renovation. This process is labor intensive and involves the removal of all grasses as well since the grass sits on this layer. Thatch can be controlled before it comes to this. Core Aeration is one of best ways to control it and is discussed more by following this link. It is also a good idea to choose grass types such as tall fescue that don't produce a lot of thatch. Some grasses should be avoided such as fine fescue and bluegrasses. 14.Q: What can be done about moles? A: Moles are scavengers. They can cause problems because of the tunnels they used coming in and out of the lawns. Although many tunnels may show up in a lawn, They normally use only one when going in and out of the area. The first thing to do is determine where the main tunnel is. This can be done by smashing down the tunnels and seeing which one pops up again. Once the tunnel is identified there are various poisons and traps on the market that can be used to get them under control. You can get more info on moles by following this link. 15.Q: Is there a connection between moles and grubs? A: Moles are scavengers! They get associated with grubs because moles are more active during the times when grubs are present. That doesn't mean that since you have moles you must have grubs. Moles eat whatever they come across including earthworms. 16. Q: Why am I seeing so many weeds appearing in my lawn in the Late Spring when you sprayed in February or March? A: The weed control used to most effectively control broadleaf weeds, such as Dandelions, Henbit and Chickweed, is a contact herbicide. What this means is that the spray must come into direct contact with the weed to penetrate into the root system and kill the weed plant internally. When our first application is generally done in February and March to lay down the first barrier to prevent Crabgrass, most of the broadleaf variety weeds are not present at that time. Therefore those particular weeds are not affected by the weed control at that time. Our Late Spring application will take care of those weeds once they start appearing. At this time there is no available Pre-Emergent that is 100% effective in preventing broadleaf seeds from germinating. Broadleaf weeds still need to be controlled the old fashioned way, either by pulling them or spraying them whenever they are noticed.
Our office hours are 9:00- 5:00, Monday-Friday (EST). |
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